Steak au poivre with twice-baked sweet potatoes
UPDATE: This is the first post of a brand new month of Everyday Food. B and G got together a few months ago and painstakingly chose an issue for December. I’m not being sarcastic. Pains were taken. It was very hard to choose. We settled on December 2011. Without even realizing it, that was the month when B and her bear visited me and D! There’s clearly something special about that month. It’s hard to believe we’ve already made it through three whole issues.
D made the steaks, so a lot of this is second hand. There’s one thing we both figured out: There is too much pepper called for in this recipe! D loves pepper and even he was picking peppercorns off of his steak. You could use 1/4 of a cup of crushed black pepper and have more than enough. Also, this is a job for a spice grinder (or a spare coffee grinder that you keep for this purpose) not your kitchen pepper mill. I started trying to grind all of the pepper with a pepper mill and D stopped me. I would probably still be grinding that pepper right now. Can you even imagine how long it would take to grind 3/4 c of pepper? Anyway, use the spice grinder and only grind 1/4 c. It will be plenty.
The sauce is heavenly. I kept finding excuses to eat more of that sauce. The fact that there was too much pepper on it just encouraged me to eat more sauce! Wine, cream, mustard, steak drippings… the gang’s all here. Ah, but there’s a twist. We didn’t have any white wine on hand. I told D that we could substitute dry vermouth like B did. D wanted to experiment and try Lillet instead. B asked me (and I definitely had to look this up) what Lillet is. She thought it was maybe a fortified wine. Welp, the series of tubes tells me it’s a “tonic wine” containing a blend of wines and mostly citrus liqueurs. Now we know.
I made the sweet potatoes, and I’ve been dreaming about them ever since. The recipe is amazing just as written. The goat cheese adds the perfect amount of tang to cut the sweetness of the potato and the richness of the butter. Add in those sharp chives, and you’ve got a nicely balanced side. I really like the panko crumb and pecan topping. All in all, I’ll be making this one again. I think you could make it all ahead of time right up until the top the refilled potato and bake step. Just make the topping right before you need it to keep the panko crumbs from getting soggy.
Oh, another note about making the sweet potatoes. The recipe has you using a food processor to mix together the baked sweet potato (mine were microwaved, by the by), goat cheese, and butter. That seemed wholly unnecessary to me. Just leave the goat cheese and butter sitting out while you microwave the sweet potatoes and do other prep. Between that little amount of softening and the heat of the potatoes, your arm can do the trick. On the other hand, I have these insane mom-guns ever since I had a baby… I still think the food processor is overkill, though.
J seemed to like the sweet potato the first time he ate it, but turned his nose up at it the second time. “Oh no!” said his mother, “I guess I’ll just have to eat it!” And, thus, G sat and ate a twice-baked sweet potato with a baby spoon. Don’t judge me until you try these potatoes.